Saturday:
Rise and shine to an overcast Saturday morning in Lima - population 8 million according to Rodolfo. Looks pretty much like other South American cities - a bit seedy - old buildings, some abandoned buildings and construction sites, broken tile sidewalks, major security roll doors with locks as big as my fist covering store fronts. But, beautiful flowering trees, cacti and hibiscus on sidewalks; taxis everywhere hooting horns - like listening to an orchestra practicing for a concert. Uniformed people sweeping gutters or sitting on wooden boxes guarding parking spots or entrances into buildings. And, oh heaven! cafe con leche! Coffee like it's supposed to be made. Good buffet breakfast with a wide assortment of fresh fruit, huevos and breads. And did I mention cafe con leche?
First walk to orient ourselves in the city, completed right after breakfast. At noon, off on another exploration of the streets of Lima. Found a whole street of jewellers (in my element, Rick....not so much). Found a park - pretty bougainvillea and art-in-the-park on display. Had lunch at an outdoor cafe - our first ceviche in South America in years - yum. Hard to believe it's winter and we are sitting outside in the sunshine and high temperatures. Served by a waiter who could have walked out of colonial times - great service, great food and great views.
At 2pm Tour of the City of Lima with Vanessa, our guide and Jose, our driver from Metropolitan Tours. The usual traffic snarls, ignore the lanes, no signalling, motor bikes piled with people weaving between cars. Saw a great metro public transport system - real people movers - passed Canada Station and Canada Road (apparently quite proud of their ties to our country).
Into the city and saw much of the old city preserved - beautiful buildings from 1700's, facades of Gothic/Alhambra style influence everywhere, neo-colonial columns, balconies and scroll work. Pebbled, cobble-stone pedestrian streets and everything from MacD's to mercado. Beautiful squares and plazas with fountains, trees and flowers, and so many different people - Quecha, local Limains, and tourists. Government buildings - the Presidential Palace, Bar Cabrona - looks like an Ernest Hemingway haunt - great for Pisco Sours and hot ham sandwiches. Plaza de Armas - largest square in the heart of Lima with bronze fountain from 1650 and a reconstructed cathedral - rebuilt in 1746 after an earthquake. San Francisco Monastry and Church - a quiet walk through it's quadrangles, lined with tiles called 'azullinda', handpainted from 1606. A peak into its historic library - remarkable for its ancient texts dating from the conquistadors.
And then onto the Catacombs underneath the Church - where 70,000 residents of the city were buried in crypts. The skulls and femur/tibia bones arranged in macabre concentric circles. The Church itself a magnificent rendition of Baroque and Moorish influence.
A walk around Santo Domingo Monastery and the Tomb of Santa Rosa de Lima - a devout woman who wore a crown of thorns and helped the poor. Onto Plaza San Martin - a more French influence in the architecture.
Last stop - Las Muralles - a park engineered from a criminal hotspot to become a family favourite with views, play parks and an uncovered architectural dig of the original city wall. About 2.5 hours of walking altogether - why don't I lose calories, and weight?? Patrick says I eat too much!
And therefore, onto the next topic - dinner at 6.30 pm at Las Tejas - sea bass steamed in white wine and tomato sauce, a Pisco Sour (fermented grape juice liquer, fluffy egg whites and lime juice) for me and a Pilsener and grilled sea bass for Patrick. Ok - not great but fair.
After dinner, a long walk to the Pacific Ocean Promenade - an obvious Limain destination - crowds of people, restaurants everywhere and Parque Amor - statues of lovers everywhere - obviously another favoured location - saw sweet sixteen's in Cinderella gowns and brides in white being photographed all around us. Peaking over the wall - cliffs forming sheer walls to the waves rushing in on brown sand, pebbly beaches. Long walk back and bed.
Early start tomorrow morning - drive to Pisco the Nazca Lines - exciting times.
Rise and shine to an overcast Saturday morning in Lima - population 8 million according to Rodolfo. Looks pretty much like other South American cities - a bit seedy - old buildings, some abandoned buildings and construction sites, broken tile sidewalks, major security roll doors with locks as big as my fist covering store fronts. But, beautiful flowering trees, cacti and hibiscus on sidewalks; taxis everywhere hooting horns - like listening to an orchestra practicing for a concert. Uniformed people sweeping gutters or sitting on wooden boxes guarding parking spots or entrances into buildings. And, oh heaven! cafe con leche! Coffee like it's supposed to be made. Good buffet breakfast with a wide assortment of fresh fruit, huevos and breads. And did I mention cafe con leche?
First walk to orient ourselves in the city, completed right after breakfast. At noon, off on another exploration of the streets of Lima. Found a whole street of jewellers (in my element, Rick....not so much). Found a park - pretty bougainvillea and art-in-the-park on display. Had lunch at an outdoor cafe - our first ceviche in South America in years - yum. Hard to believe it's winter and we are sitting outside in the sunshine and high temperatures. Served by a waiter who could have walked out of colonial times - great service, great food and great views.
At 2pm Tour of the City of Lima with Vanessa, our guide and Jose, our driver from Metropolitan Tours. The usual traffic snarls, ignore the lanes, no signalling, motor bikes piled with people weaving between cars. Saw a great metro public transport system - real people movers - passed Canada Station and Canada Road (apparently quite proud of their ties to our country). 
Into the city and saw much of the old city preserved - beautiful buildings from 1700's, facades of Gothic/Alhambra style influence everywhere, neo-colonial columns, balconies and scroll work. Pebbled, cobble-stone pedestrian streets and everything from MacD's to mercado. Beautiful squares and plazas with fountains, trees and flowers, and so many different people - Quecha, local Limains, and tourists. Government buildings - the Presidential Palace, Bar Cabrona - looks like an Ernest Hemingway haunt - great for Pisco Sours and hot ham sandwiches. Plaza de Armas - largest square in the heart of Lima with bronze fountain from 1650 and a reconstructed cathedral - rebuilt in 1746 after an earthquake. San Francisco Monastry and Church - a quiet walk through it's quadrangles, lined with tiles called 'azullinda', handpainted from 1606. A peak into its historic library - remarkable for its ancient texts dating from the conquistadors.
A walk around Santo Domingo Monastery and the Tomb of Santa Rosa de Lima - a devout woman who wore a crown of thorns and helped the poor. Onto Plaza San Martin - a more French influence in the architecture.
Last stop - Las Muralles - a park engineered from a criminal hotspot to become a family favourite with views, play parks and an uncovered architectural dig of the original city wall. About 2.5 hours of walking altogether - why don't I lose calories, and weight?? Patrick says I eat too much!And therefore, onto the next topic - dinner at 6.30 pm at Las Tejas - sea bass steamed in white wine and tomato sauce, a Pisco Sour (fermented grape juice liquer, fluffy egg whites and lime juice) for me and a Pilsener and grilled sea bass for Patrick. Ok - not great but fair.
Early start tomorrow morning - drive to Pisco the Nazca Lines - exciting times.
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